 Natural
Fabrics
Man-Made
Fabrics
Technical
Considerations
These basic types of fabrics each have their
own benefits and drawbacks, lending themselves
to different applications. Each type has numerous
weaves that can drastically change how the
fabric feels, functions and washes. Weave types
can describe more than one fabric type (ex.
jersey weave can be from wool, silk, cotton,
or man-made fibers).
Cotton
By far, the most popular fabric material in the world
is cotton. Cotton breathes well and washes easily.
Pure cotton wrinkles and holds stains, so many uniforms
are made of polyester/cotton blends. The polyester
has wash-and-wear characteristics, and the cotton
preserves the comfort. Polyester can contribute to
pilling and reduced “breatheability.” Uniform
manufacturers are turning more to 100% cotton with
treatments that reduce stains and wrinkles. Cotton
can also be blended with linen, wool and other fibers.
Cotton will retain more than 20 times its
weight in water, is stronger wet than dry,
absorbs and releases perspiration quickly,
withstands high temperatures (for washing,
wearing and ironing), and accepts dyes easily.
Chlorine bleach can restore whites, but it
can strip color from dyed cottons and can yellow
chemically finished cotton.
| Popular
Cotton Weaves and Fabrics |
| Oxford |
shirting fabric
with a lustrous, soft finish characterized
by narrow stripes in plain or basket weave |
| Polished Cotton |
finished chemically to appear
shiny |
| Drill |
strong-twilled cotton fabric
used in slacks |
| Heavyweight Drill |
used in awnings, tents,
etc. |
| Lighter Duck |
durable, tightly woven fabric
used in summer clothing |
| Flannel |
soft with a slight nap on
one or both sides |
| Flannelette |
has nap on one side only |
| Gingham |
lightweight fabric that
is woven in checks, plaids or stripes |
| Seersucker |
lightweight cotton fabric
crinkled into lengthwise stripes and is
used for suits or uniforms for a Southern
or island flavor |
| Terry Cloth |
has looped piles that make
it absorbent and perfect for towels, bathrobes,
etc. |
Wool
Wool is known for its warmth, but some think it’s
scratchy. Depending on the animal the wool comes
from (alpaca, angora goats or rabbits, camels, llamas,
etc.), it can be rough or incredibly soft. Wool fibers
are curly, leaving pockets of air that make the fabric
warm and spongy. Those curls also cause wool to shrink
when washed incorrectly. Wool is common in men’s
suits since it returns to normal after being creased
or stretched and since it is tailored and shaped
easily. Wool is also dirt resistant, flame resistant,
and resists wear and tearing. Wools breathe well
and absorb water without feeling wet, wicking moisture
from the body.
Wool is produced by two basic processes: woolen and
worsted. Woolens are soft and fuzzy, won’t
hold a crease, are bulkier and heavier, and have
little sheen (like sweaters). Worsteds are smoother,
hold a crease, don’t sag, wear longer and take
a shine more easily.
| Popular
Wool Weaves and Fabrics |
| Mohair |
highly resilient
and strong, lending itself to home decorating
and garments |
| Camel Hair |
often blended with other
fine wools for overcoats and sportswear |
| Beaver Cloth |
heavy woolen overcoating
used for hats |
| Gabardine |
tightly woven wool twill
with a high sheen that’s excellent
for tailoring and wears well |
| Glen Checks |
used in menswear, are characterized
by a variety of small, even check designs |
| Tweed |
is a rough-textured, sturdy
wool very popular for sport coats |
| Harris Tweed |
hand-woven fabric from Scotland
with a soft feel |
| Herringbone |
woven in a twill that is
reversed at regular spacing, creating a
zigzag line |
| Petersham |
very thick, waterproof woolen
coating that’s usually dark blue,
is used for men’s trousers or heavy
coats |
Other
Natural Fiber Fabrics
Silk is soft, luxurious and elegant. It is the strongest
natural fiber, absorbs moisture, cools in summer
and warms in winter, and can be dyed easily. Silk
retains its shape, drapes well, and has high luster.
Silk suits are popular because they fit office and
evening attire depending on accessories. While most
silks can be hand washed (roll dry in a towel), the
weave will shrink initially, so all silk fabric must
be washed before it’s made into a garment.
Silk is weakened by high heat, sunlight and perspiration.
China silk is what most people associate with “silk” and
comes in a variety of weights. Silk Broadcloth
is a plain weave silk in various weights, crisper
than china silk, and often used in shirts.
Chiffon is a transparent soft and light silk
(heavier and crinkled chiffon is called Georgette).
Silk Doupioni threads are uneven and irregular,
and it is most often found in men’s and
women’s fine suits and dresses. Organza
is transparent, often used in overlays.
Linen is twice the strength of cotton, with a smooth
feel that is almost completely lint free. It gets
softer with each washing, but colors will not fade.
Linen wrinkles easily but also irons easily. Constant
creasing in the same place in sharp folds (like collars
or hems) will tend to break the linen threads.
Hemp fabric is like linen in both hand and
appearance. Hemp withstands water better than
any other textile product. It wrinkles easily
and should not be creased excessively to avoid
wear and breakage of the fibers.
Ramie is also similar to linen but with a
high luster and an unusual resistance to bacteria
and molds. It is extremely absorbent and dries
quickly. Ramie has excellent abrasion resistance
up to five times stronger than cotton.
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