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M A G A Z I N E
December 2004
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In Chef Apparel, the Classics Make a Comeback

By Jackie Rosselli


Americans love to eat out, seeing the dining experience less as a means of sustenance and more as a social happening, a form of theatre or entertainment. And no matter what your style, culinary tastes or budget might be, you’re certain to find a restaurant of your liking. According to recent figures from the National Restaurant Association, there are approximately 850,00 eating establishments nationwide, employing about eight percent of the total U.S. workforce.

For the retailer or manufacturer, this, of course, is good news – restaurants, no matter the type or size, need uniforms. While attention has always been focused on the wait staff, chef’s needn’t be left out of the equation when developing a uniform program for an eating establishment. With the advent of the chef as “star,” – think Emeril and Wolfgang Puck before him, chef apparel has become an integral source of income for many in the business.

Much of the chef’s uniform has developed out of necessity. The National Culinary Review states that the jacket, for example, is double-breasted so it can be reversed to hide stains that may accumulate throughout the day. Even the familiar knotted cloth buttons were fashioned for a reason – cloth will withstand the frequent washings and abuse buttons often take in the kitchen. Neckerchiefs, worn for aesthetics today, were originally draped around the neck to absorb body sweat. Outfits were colored in the basics -- white, black and gray – to denote both elegance and professionalism.

But like other segments of the uniform industry, chef’s apparel has experienced its share of change over the past several decades. The basic chef’s uniform – white coat, black pants and toque, or hat – fell out of favor with some cooks and establishments, replaced over the past two decades with non-traditional, “fun” apparel that gave chefs an opportunity to express their individuality through their clothes as well as their food. “This was really a result of the open kitchen concept,” says Harvey Singer of the Schenectady, NY- based Chef Direct. “You were now able to see the person preparing your food, and these guys wanted to make a statement.”

They made their statement by wearing nouveau uniforms that ranged from pinstriped baggy pants and denim jackets to full blown wildly patterned outfits with chili peppers, grapes and even flowers. The pristine, white jacket was shunned in favor of chambray blue, harvest brown and midnight black. For the makers of such apparel, this splash of fashion boosted sales and, sensing opportunity, drew many newcomers into the field.

Yet today’s hot trend can quickly become yesterday’s news. While restaurants are still viewed as a form of theatre by both the employee and patron, the popularity of outlandish chef attire is on the wane. Still in demand in some regions, sales of the clothing have been declining for some years now, according to those manufacturers contacted for this article. Why the change? Professionalism, or more accurately, what is perceived as professional by the public. “Expressing one’s individuality is fine, but in many areas, it was taken too far and got out of hand,” notes Singer. “Chefs are professionals who put a lot of time into what they do, and they want to be taken seriously for their efforts.”

Being taken seriously nowadays means back-to-basics, a return to traditional wear. At Georgia-based ERB Industries, Jackie Barker, vice president, sales and marketing, says that their customers have always demanded a classic approach to chef’s uniforms. “We of course have seen some of the flashier outfits out there, but we’ve never really focused on that,” says Barker. “Our approach has always been to provide quality, basic, apparel for the chef and kitchen staff at a value price.” Barker believes that clothing affects the perceptions of both the public and wearer. “People want to look good no matter if they’re in the front of the restaurant or in the kitchen,” she notes. “If you look good, you’ll do a better job.”

Sticking to the basics means focusing on a simple color palette – black, white and gray are used generously in garments manufactured by ERB. The hottest seller in their kitchen line is a basic, double-breasted chef’s coat in a 65%/35% poly/cotton twill with French-knot buttons. “It gives any chef an executive style appearance without the cost of an executive chef outfit.” Other items, including a chef’s pant colored in kakhi, mixes the traditional with a slight update -- cargo pockets – a much-needed feature for today’s high-tech chef.

Of course, when a chef really wants to make a statement and has the budget to do so, he or she will opt for a coat made of 100% Egyptian cotton. “The premier chefs will sometimes cook in one outfit then change to this coat when they’re out in the restaurant talking with customers,” notes Singer. This high-end alternative is reserved strictly for the executive chef. Chef Direct carries a complete line of designer chef coats as well as the more affordable 65%/35% poly/cotton twill version affixed with pearl buttons and a left chest pocket. And Chef Direct has addressed the kitchen staff’s most frequent concern – staying dry under extreme heat conditions – by launching a product which is fast becoming its best seller. Worn under a chef’s coat, the line consists of specially designed undergarments intended to absorb body moisture in kitchens where temperatures reach 130F.

The most recognizable feature of a chef’s uniform – the hat – has also experienced a design change over the years. Traditionally, hats were manufactured in different sizes to distinguish the cooks from the chefs. The more established the chef, the taller the hat, and younger, inexperienced chefs wore shorter hats, fashioned like caps. While still true today, other options abound, thanks to modern day conveniences and technology. Chef Direct sells a bandana cap that utilizes DuPont’s CoolMax technology and a terrycloth sweatband that wicks moisture away from the skin. And because the cleanliness of the cooks uniform is crucial, there’s even reusable, disposable chef hats that can be discarded once they are soiled.

As with anything, the chef’s uniform continues to evolve. And while no one expects chili peppers, green and purple grapes and other outlandish designs to disappear completely, it seems that for the moment, classic chef clothing is enjoying a renaissance.

 

Photos courtesy of Chef Direct at www.chefdirect.com.

 

 


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