Add Value To Your Uniform Program With Stretch Fabrics

By Jackie Rosselli

“We are simply more active nowadays,” says Susan Cregan, Milliken’s senior account manager, when explaining the move toward stretch.. “We’re exercising and spending more time at the gym. This has fueled a demand for comfortable clothing, for outfits that are more in tune with what is worn on the weekends.”

Like other trends in the industry, the interest in stretch products can be linked in part to the dressing down craze that has impacted uniform programs over the past decade. “We are more relaxed as a society and are influenced by athletic wear,” notes Liberty Uniforms Steve Robinson. But while diet and fitness books consistently outsell works of fiction or biography, the paradox is that most Americans aren’t sliming down. “We are just larger than we used to be, and our clothing choices reflect this.” In response to these and other factors, the Spartanburg, SC, Liberty Uniforms will introduce its Comfort Zone program in the fall. Designed for the law enforcement industry, the line will utilize both mechanical and branded stretch features for its shirts and trousers.

In the uniform industry, garments with stretch have traditionally been worn by those in law enforcement and career apparel. A bike patrol demands ease of movement and comfort, as does the tasks performed by many hospitality workers. And as the nature of police work and the composition of its workforce has changed, so too, have the uniforms. “Fashion has always been a driver in this business, as is the case in law enforcement today,” says Chris Neary of New Jersey-based Concept III, an inclusive resource for the development, sourcing and production of textiles and textile-based finished apparel products. “These guys are much more active and highly visible, and they want to look good.”

Technology, too, has breathed new life into stretch garments. “Technological advances have helped us produce a product with better recovery,” notes Lisa Brown, general merchandising manager, specialty fabrics, Burlington Industries. “The product has to snap right back, provide comfort and maintain its look over its normal lifetime, and we have that with today’s stretch fabrics.”

Is there an optimal level of stretch demanded by today’s uniform customer? No, but Brown believes that in wearing, 10-20% stretch is used. “This range is important for the comfort and value it adds to a garment, and in some cases that ideal may be as high as 25%.”

Yet not all stretch fabrics are created equal. Mechanical stretch, a process done during garment construction, can help build in some of the comfort a customer looks for. And depending on how the fabric is made, it can be a cost effective way to achieve certain stretch features. However, mechanical stretch products over time will not recover after being stretched and thus lead to diminished comfort and sagging.

A popular alternative to mechanical stretch is the incorporation of Lycra®, a man-made stretch fiber available from Invista. Lycra® delivers greater stretch than mechanical stretch which translates into greater comfort because of the high quality stretch and superior recovery. They are also softer and smoother that mechanical stretch fabrics.

There is a price premium for adding branded Lycra® stretch to a garment but according to Joanne H. Licht, jobwear business manager, Invista, the benefits far outweigh the cost. “Invista provides full service including base fiber, base finish, technical support and a sourcing pipeline, so we have the ability to influence the value chain,” says Licht.. And Lycra® garments are highly durable. Licht continues: “Think about how the skin stretches when you move. Clothing restricts body movements, preventing freedom of motion. The addition of Lycra® actually enables clothing to move with the natural movements of the body while retaining the original shape of the outfit. Lycra® also enhances the drape of a fabric, improves crease recovery and contributes to better comfort and fit.” Garments containing Lycra® do not require special care, but should follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the service label.

Yet stretch currently represents less that 1% of the predominant 65/35 cotton/poly product makeup. Why? Because Lycra® elastane, as it is known, has performance limitations and can only be home laundered or dry cleaned, making it virtually useless in the industrial uniform market. To address these issues, Invista has introduced Lycra® elasterell-p, the new generic name for T-400, because of its multiple performance benefits, multiple branding opportunities and durability to industrial laundering conditions. “The fact that it can be branded as Lycra® because it has stretch and recovery properties as well as branded as Coolmax® because of its moisture management benefits provides the wearer with comfort for the life of the garment,” explains Licht. “Additionally, because T-400 produces sharper and more permanent creases than conventional polyester/cotton and without requiring a post-cure resin, the functional benefits of T-400 over the incumbent is enhanced and even greater.”

Will T-400 have an impact in the industry and the types of garments produced for the end user? Undoubtedly. Its benefits could be used to gain market share in workwear, hospitality, law enforcement and healthcare. And it could also allay the concerns by some in Washington over safety in the workplace. Concept III’s Chris Neary explains: “It’s a given that stretch products look good. But the added value in the industrial area isn’t about looks. In these markets, stretch equals a tighter fit and less sag. For a mechanic, this is extremely important because there is less opportunity for error.” And for the business owner, the likelihood of lawsuits and worker’s compensation claims may also diminish.

What the consumer market has known for quite some time is slowly, as always, being transferred to the uniform industry. Technology and a shift in societal attitudes have just armed suppliers and retailers with another way to add value to their customer’s uniform program.