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June 2004
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Casual Wear, Changes in Police Work Influence Style, Fuel Growth in Tactical Uniform Market

By Jackie Rosselli


It’s no secret that tactical wear is an important part of today’s uniform market. “It just keeps expanding, and there’s no end in sight,” says Tom Ames, director of marketing, Blauer Manufacturing. But what is somewhat surprising to the casual observer is the overall look of the clothes. Tactical wear is now stylish and contemporary, a far cry from the typical BDU look worn by tactical teams. Indeed, the garments are not only being worn by specialized units, but by others as well. And according to Steve Robinson, Liberty Uniform, Spartanburg, SC, the garments have become so important that in many instances they are being worn in lieu of the Class A. “Tactical uniforms are replacing traditional wear so fast that if you don’t get involved, you will lose market share,” he notes.

Today’s tactical uniforms cover the fabric gamut, with the poly/cotton blend leading in popularity. But they also come in poly/rayon, worsted wood blends and pre-shrunk, wrinkle free 100% cotton. Lycra and Lycra-like yarns can also be found in some fabrications. All trousers feature numerous side and cell phone pockets and stretch waistbands. Shirts include pockets as well, and allow full range of motion. The clothing is so popular with today’s police force that some officers even don their uniforms when they’re off duty.

How and when did this happen? Many point to changes in the nature of police work over the last decade as a leading source driving the tactical market. “Police officers are more active nowadays, and handle a broader range of duties,” says Ames. “While a Class A looks good, it doesn’t have the functionality needed for today’s type of work. It doesn’t allow full range of motion, and isn’t very comfortable.” The amount and type of equipment carried by an officer has also contributed to the shift. Today’s cops not only tote around handcuffs and night sticks, but specialized weaponry, latex gloves and cell phones too, making side trouser pockets a necessity. “There’s only so much you can fit on a duty belt,” notes Robinson.

It was the Boston-based Blauer that first recognized a latent need for change, and they responded nine years ago by introducing a full line of trousers and shirts for the tactical market. Typically made of poly/cotton blends and fabrics with stretch properties, the garments provide an officer with the comfort, utility and style that was missing in everyday uniforms. Other companies quickly followed suit, introducing their own versions.

The result has been a blurring of the lines between a traditional BDU and the standard Class A, creating in effect, a new Class B. “This all started with the BDU, a uniform identified by its patch pockets and drawstring pants,” Fechheimer’s Fred Heldman says. “As public safety and law enforcement turned away from dress uniforms, many of the styles developed came from what was happening in commercial apparel.” But while a BDU is functional, it was designed with the military in mind, and is considered too harsh and dramatic in appearance for today’s casual world. In response, the industry modified the look, and the market took off. “The folks who were wearing Dockers with cargo pockets became cops. They liked the look, and wanted it on the job too,” notes Heldman.

Heldman’s point underscores the role that the dress-down craze played in the evolution of tactical wear. It also brings to mind the changes in the average police recruit. Says Ed Philips of Spiewak: “Traditionally, most cops were ex-military men, but that isn’t true anymore. The industry took its cue from the military, and designed uniforms that looked sharp, but weren’t necessarily practical or functional. That has changed, and it has been driven in a large part by the end user and the commercial market.” Society, too, became more informal and dressed down over the past decade. As it did, the public's opinion of what a police officer should look like relaxed too. “They were more open to looks that reflected their own change in lifestyle, and as such became less tolerant of a military-type appearance,” notes Philips.

Like career apparel during the 90s, the law enforcement market was being driven by changes in mainstream fashion. But cops aren’t fast food workers. How do you command respect in a casual uniform? How do you add performance and style without detracting from perception? “You can look traditional without looking like a soldier,” says Ames. That sentiment is echoed by Spiewak’s Michael Spiewak. “Just look at Bike Patrols. They’ve always come from a performance point of view. They wear Lycra pants, comfortable shirts and breathable fabrics, yet they still look professional.”

There is still another reality driving today’s tactical uniform market that must be mentioned -- the September 11 tragedy. “It seems cliche to say, but that event changed the world,” says Matt Sinclair of 5.ll Tactical. “It made us look at law enforcement differently, and showed that crime is very different from what we thought it was. Therefore, the preparation for the job had to change. And that included the uniform. Slacks just don’t cut it in this type of environment.” Many departments are also getting an infusion of money from the Department of Homeland Security. The funds, earmarked for equipment designed to fight the war on terror, mean that tactical uniforms in their present version are here to stay and will continue to flourish.

Will all this translate into the ultimate demise of the Class A? Not likely, but it will no doubt undergo modification. “There will always be a need for a more traditional, dressy look in law enforcement,” notes Philips. “What will happen over time is that the Class A will undergo changes making it more suited to today’s world. The requirements for police uniforms are unique -- they must be able to take a beating while still looking good. This is the challenge we’re all faced with. Change will come, but it will take time.”


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