Doing it Their Way: Women-Owned Uniform Businesses

Overall, the state of women’s business ownership in the United States is quite strong – one in eighteen women in the U.S. is a business owner. And the number of women-owned businesses continues to grow at twice the rate of all U.S. firms, according to the National Women’s Business Council, a bi-partisan federal government board created to serve as an independent source of information on matters affecting women business owners. As of 2004, there were an estimated 10.6 million privately-held businesses in which a woman or women owned at least 50 percent of the company. Among them, 6.7 million were majority-owned.

These 10.6 million women-owned firms employ 19.1 million people and generate $2.46 trillion in sales. Majority women-owned firms employ 9.8 million workers and generate $1.19 trillion in sales.

As always, figures specific to the uniform industry are difficult to find, however, it is known that the largest share of privately-held majority women-owned firms is in, not surprisingly, the service sector, with more than half (51%) in services. To obtain industry-specific information, UniformMarket interviewed women uniform business owners from across the country. What advantages or disadvantages, if any, do these businesses face? Do women owners operate differently than their male counterparts? Does gender play a role in the bottom line? Why are women attracted to an industry that has been traditionally run by men?

While much of this article is anecdotal, one fact is clear – women have always played some role in the uniform business. But until the last two decades, they have usually played a supporting part, doing the books for a husband, or helping out dad during summer vacation. “I went to law school, got a degree, and had been involved in the business before, but it wasn’t until about 10 years ago that I became the lead decision-maker and took on the business responsibilities full time,” says Ilene Rosen, chief operating officer, Hamburger Woolen Company, a New York manufacturer specializing in fabric, police and security equipment. “That’s when my dad asked me to come back and serve as COO.”

Indeed, many of today’s female-owned companies started their life as family busine sses. But while staying true to the family’s philosophy is desirable, these new owners are conducting business differently than their father’s and uncles, bringing a corporate finesse to what had been a mom and pop mainstay. “My experiences outside of this industry have given me a perspective different from my dad’s, which is a positive because of today’s business climate” says Rosen. “This is a difficult business nowadays. The old ways of doing things, the three martini lunches and friendly golf outings that were such an essential part of closing the deal in my father’s time, have virtually disappeared. It takes more to survive and grow today, and my pervious experiences have helped me move this company forward.”

One way she has selected to grow her business is by having the company certified as a women-owned enterprise. While there are no tax benefits to doing this, Rosen hopes the certification will translate into new customers. “There are many companies that are mandated to award a portion of their contracts to a woman or minority-owned businesses, and there are others that find diversity desirable,” notes Rosen. “Having the certification helps them find us easier.” But certification isn’t for everyone. “You really have to think long and hard before undertaking this,” continues Rosen. “It is a laborious, bureaucratic process, and you should consider whether it is worth it beforehand.”

For Ilyse Gottlieb, co-owner of Security Uniforms, growing her business meant pursuing a new product line. “Too much paperwork and far too many questions,” Gottlieb says of the certification process. The company, a retail store specializing in uniforms for police, fire and EMS personnel, has recently introduced a line of body armor as a way to add diversity to its product offerings and to capitalize on post 9/ll realities. She and her husband, Ross, have run the business for the past 17 years, with help from their all-female staff. “Yes, my husband is the only man here, and he loves it,” says Gottlieb.

But do her customers? Are there some that would prefer dealing with a man, particularly with such a male-oriented customer base? “There are a few, of course, and we try to accommodate them, but if I’m the better person to close the deal, then I do it.” Although on life support, the old-boy network still lingers in the industry, and can affect the business relationship. “Of course it’s still there, just as it is in every other business,” notes Hamburger Woolen’s Rosen. “But there are too many other issues, such as shrinking profit margins, imports and industry consolidation that impact my bottom line, so I don’t think too much about it.”

The issues may be similar for male and female women business owners, but according to those we spoke with, the way in which a woman conducts her business is starkly different than her male counterpart. “We definitely bring a different element to the table,” notes Gottlieb. “Ethics and honesty are very important to us, and it is becoming increasingly difficult to find these attributes. When I say something is on backorder, it’s on backorder.”

“We put our heart into our work, and get more involved in the details,” says Creative Uniforms Denise Nahman, a San Diego-based uniform store specializing in the casino and hospitality markets. “As a woman, I go the extra mile to give the customer the service she is looking for. And if it takes me a dozen phone calls to get a deal, then so be it. I find that my male counterparts aren’t as persistent.”

That persistence, she says, has paid off time and again. So has her willingness to sell her customers whatever they need. “If they want pantyhose, I’ll sell them pantyhose. I will tend to the details and think out of the box.”

Unlike many, Nahman didn’t inherit or marry into the uniform business. A divorced South African immigrant, Nahman started her business two years ago, after receiving her permanent residency. “From a sales perspective, being a women business owner has been a plus. Male customers, in particular, appreciate my being able to see the big picture and the willingness to tend to the details. But on the business side it’s been difficult. Getting financing was tough, and I don’t think it would have been as hard if I were a man.” And Nahman might be right. While the share of women business owners with bank credit has risen, the amount of capital they have available still lags behind their male counterparts, according to the NWBC.

But while one can argue that it is easier to be detail oriented when you’re running a small business, the belief that women are more customer driven carries into mid-size companies as well. “Our philosophy is to jump whenever someone needs something,” says Dee Tennant, owner of Santana Formal Accessories, a manufacturer with 110 employees. “As women, we are very used to wearing 10 hats at one time. We are more creative, more design oriented, and yes, much more detail oriented.” Santana’s uniform side, Santana Uniform Direct, manufactures vests, pants, shirts and cocktail outfits for Indian and commercial casinos, selling direct as well as to the dealer. “Much of our work is custom,” she notes.

And what of the future? Do any of these women see their companies becoming giants in the industry? “I’m too hands on to become a Cintas,’ notes Tennant. “I wouldn’t want to get to the point where I’d have to sacrifice the service,” agrees Nahman. Would they recommend this industry to other women? “This is a great business for a woman,” Tennant advises. “You can go into it at any age, as long as you are excited and enthusiastic. There are many customers out there today clamoring for quality and service. As women, we’re well equipped to provide both.”

To contact the companies mentioned in this article:

Hamburger Woolen Company New Hyde Park , NY 516-352-7400 800-221-3464 www.hwcny.com

Security Uniforms New Britain , CT 860-224-1773 www.securityuniforms.com

Santana Uniform Direct San Fernando , CA 800-831-7711 www.santanaapparel.com

Creative Uniforms San Diego , CA 858-672-3414 www.creativeuniforms.com

Useful websites :

www.womenbiz.gov – Sponsored by the United States government, this website offers practical advice on selling to the federal agencies.

www.women-21.gov – One stop shop for resources and information. Topics include: access to capital, setting up a business and retirement security. Sponsored by the Department of Labor and the Small Business Administration.

www.nwbc.gov – Access up-to-date information on women business owners and their enterprises A service of the National Women’s Business Council.